Trip highlights
- 1Hagia Sophia at dawn before crowds arrive
- 2Grand Bazaar's labyrinth of copper, spice, and silk
- 3Bosphorus sunset cruise
- 4Kadıköy fish market and food tour
- 5Turkish hamam (Çemberlitaş) experience
Daily spend
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Day-by-day plan
Arrival & Sultanahmet
Friday, October 1
Est. spend
$160
per person
🌅 Morning
Arrive at Istanbul Airport (IST) or Sabiha Gökçen (SAW)
Istanbul Airport, Tayakadın, 34283 Istanbul
Istanbul Airport (IST) serves most international routes. Metro M11 connects the airport to Gayrettepe in 35 minutes (43 TRY pp); from Gayrettepe take M2 to Sultanahmet area. Alternatively, the Havaist shuttle bus to Taksim is 1 hour (€7). Sabiha Gökçen on the Asian side: shuttle to Kadıköy ferry, then ferry to Eminönü.
The Istanbulkart transit card (€2 for card, load with credit) covers metro, trams, ferries, and buses. Buy one at the airport before leaving — it will save you significant money over single tickets.
Hotel check-in in Sultanahmet
Sultanahmet, Fatih, Istanbul
Base yourself in Sultanahmet for the first three days — walking distance to every major historical site. Hotels with views of the Hagia Sophia or Marmara Sea are worth the slight premium.
☀️ Afternoon
First view of Hagia Sophia and the Hippodrome
Sultanahmet Meydanı, 34122 Istanbul
The Hippodrome of Constantinople (now Sultanahmet Square) is where 100,000 Romans watched chariot racing. The Egyptian Obelisk (1450 BC, brought from Luxor in 390 AD) still stands. Hagia Sophia dominates the skyline — it was the largest domed building in the world for nearly 1,000 years. Exterior is free; interior (now a mosque) is free but modest dress required.
Hagia Sophia opens at 9am and closes for Friday prayers. The best time to visit the interior is 9am on a weekday before tour groups arrive.
Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Camii)
Sultanahmet, Fatih, 34122 Istanbul
The only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets — built 1609–1616 with 20,000 Iznik tiles coating the interior in blue and white. Closed to non-worshippers during prayer times (5 times daily, ~45 minutes each). Entry free; modest dress and shoe removal required.
Check the prayer time schedule the night before and plan to visit immediately after the midday prayer (öğle) ends — you get 1.5–2 hours of clear visiting time.
🌙 Evening
Arasta Bazaar and evening stroll
Torun Sokak 20, Sultanahmet, 34122 Istanbul
The small bazaar behind the Blue Mosque has better-quality carpets and ceramics than the Grand Bazaar with far less pressure. The shopkeepers here are dealers, not touts — you can browse without being grabbed.
Dinner at Karaköy Lokantası
Kemankeş Caddesi 37A, Karaköy, 34425 Istanbul
Locally adored meyhane (tavern) in Karaköy — excellent meze spread, grilled fish, and rakı. The zeytinyağlı artichoke, humus, and smoked aubergine meze are benchmarks. A short Istanbulkart tram ride from Sultanahmet.
Book 3–5 days ahead for dinner. Order the balık (grilled fish of the day) in addition to the meze spread — they are usually lavraki (sea bass) or çipura (sea bream) from the morning market.
🍽️ Meals
Simit from street cart
Turkish street food · $2 · The circular sesame bread ring costs €0.30 from street carts. With a glass of çay from a nearby teahouse — the essential Istanbul arrival breakfast.
Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi
Turkish köfte · $20 · Istanbul's most famous köfte restaurant, operating since 1920. The recipe has not changed. Standing queues are normal and move fast.
Karaköy Lokantası
Modern Turkish meyhane · $70 · Outstanding meze, fresh fish, and excellent house rakı. A Karaköy institution.
Topkapi Palace & Spice Bazaar
Saturday, October 2
Est. spend
$270
per person
🌅 Morning
Hagia Sophia at 9am opening
Ayasofya Meydanı 1, Fatih, 34122 Istanbul
The interior of Hagia Sophia repays the early alarm. Built in 537 AD, it was the largest interior space in the world for centuries. The pendentive dome, the floating gallery, and the gold mosaics of Byzantine emperors (some visible, some covered by Islamic calligraphy) are overwhelming in the morning light when fewer than 200 people are inside.
The upper gallery (requiring a separate entrance) has the best Byzantine mosaics including the Deësis — a 13th-century mosaic face of Christ of extraordinary subtlety. Do not skip it.
Topkapi Palace
Topkapı, Fatih, 34220 Istanbul
The Ottoman imperial palace from 1465–1856 — a series of courtyards leading to increasingly restricted imperial chambers. The Harem (additional ticket, €12 pp) is where the sultan's household lived — 400 rooms, intricate Iznik tile work, and extraordinary marble baths. The Treasury holds the 86-carat Spoonmaker's Diamond and the Topkapi Dagger.
The Harem is worth the extra ticket — buy it online in advance as the daily allocation sells out. The view of the Bosphorus and Asian shore from the fourth courtyard is the best in Istanbul.
☀️ Afternoon
Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı)
Rüstempaşa, Eminönü, 34116 Istanbul
The 1664 Egyptian Bazaar — an L-shaped covered market selling spices, dried fruits, Turkish Delight, saffron, sumac, Maraş pepper, and fresh nuts. Smaller and less overwhelming than the Grand Bazaar. The shops sell to Istanbul's professional cooks, not just tourists.
For spices, the shops toward the back of the bazaar (away from the main doors) have better quality and lower prices. Compare the saffron prices at three shops before buying.
Galata Bridge fish sandwich
Eminönü, Fatih, 34130 Istanbul
The double-decker Galata Bridge over the Golden Horn is lined with fishermen above and restaurants below. The balık ekmek (grilled mackerel sandwich) boats moored at Eminönü are Istanbul's iconic street food — fresh mackerel in bread with salad and lemon for €3.
Rüstem Pasha Mosque
Hasırcılar Caddesi, Eminönü, 34116 Istanbul
Hidden above the bazaar district on a terrace — Istanbul's most beautiful small mosque, built 1561 by Sinan for Grand Vizier Rüstem Pasha. The interior is entirely covered in İznik tiles in the finest quality ever produced. Completely free, almost never crowded.
Take the narrow stairs off Hasırcılar Caddesi — the mosque is elevated above the street and easy to walk past.
🌙 Evening
Çemberlitaş Hamamı (Turkish bath)
Vezirhan Caddesi 8, Fatih, 34126 Istanbul
One of Istanbul's oldest working hamams, built in 1584 by Sinan for Nurbanu Sultan. The kese (exfoliation scrub) + köpük (foam massage) session is the classic. Entry with bath towel, scrub, and soap massage €45–55 pp. The original marble rooms are genuinely beautiful.
Book online — walk-ins often face a wait. The separate men's and women's sections are both equally well-maintained. Tip the tellak (bath attendant) €5–10 separately.
🍽️ Meals
Hafız Mustafa
Ottoman sweets and café · $15 · Istanbul's most celebrated confectionery since 1864. Turkish breakfast (menemen eggs, cheeses, honey, cream) in the upstairs café. The lokum (Turkish Delight) and baklava are the definitive versions.
Balık ekmek at Eminönü
Turkish street food · $8 · Grilled mackerel sandwich from the boats moored at Eminönü — €3 per sandwich, eat standing by the water.
Hamam dinner is skipped
Light mezze post-hamam · $35 · After the hamam, a light dinner at Leb-i Derya in Karaköy — rooftop terrace with Bosphorus views, good for a relaxed plate of meze.
Grand Bazaar & Beyoğlu
Sunday, October 3
Est. spend
$310
per person
🌅 Morning
Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı)
Beyazıt, Fatih, 34126 Istanbul
One of the world's oldest covered markets — 4,000 shops in 60 covered streets, built in 1461. Carpets, gold jewellery, leather, lamps, spices, and textiles. The pressure from vendors is persistent but polite — saying 'thank you, just looking' firmly in English works. The best quality carpets are in the Old Bazaar section (Iç Bedesten).
If you're seriously shopping for a carpet, go to the Bazaar on a quiet Tuesday morning, find three shops you like, then return to your favourite. Never buy on the first visit — you lose all bargaining position.
Suleymaniye Mosque
Sıddık Sami Onar Caddesi 1, Fatih, 34116 Istanbul
Sinan's masterpiece, built 1550–1558 for Suleiman the Magnificent — the finest Ottoman mosque in Istanbul and the most architecturally sophisticated. The peaceful garden behind the mosque contains Sinan's own modest mausoleum. Crowds are a fraction of Sultanahmet's mosques.
Walk to the garden terrace behind the mosque for views over the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus beyond — one of Istanbul's finest free panoramas.
☀️ Afternoon
Galata Tower
Bereketzade, Galata Kulesi, 34421 Istanbul
A 14th-century Genoese watchtower at the heart of the old European quarter. The observation deck (€11 entry) gives a 360° view of the city — both shores of the Bosphorus, Topkapi, and the domes and minarets of the historic peninsula.
Queue early — the lift takes small groups and the wait can reach 45 minutes by midday. Book online to skip the ticket queue at least.
Istiklal Caddesi and Çiçek Pasajı
İstiklal Caddesi, Beyoğlu, 34433 Istanbul
Istanbul's main pedestrian boulevard — 2km of shops, restaurants, cafés, and the historic Tünel funicular at one end. Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage) is a 19th-century arcade now lined with meyhanes. The neighbourhood behind Istiklal (Beyoğlu's backstreets) is where Istanbul's creative class works and eats.
The red tram that runs down Istiklal is purely a tourist attraction — it doesn't go anywhere useful. Walk instead.
🌙 Evening
Dinner at Mikla
Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 15, Beyoğlu, 34430 Istanbul
Turkish-Nordic tasting menu on the rooftop of the Marmara Pera hotel — chef Mehmet Gürs is one of Turkey's most celebrated, and the views over the Golden Horn and Bosphorus from the terrace are unmatched. Tasting menu €80–100 pp.
Book 2–3 weeks ahead. Request a terrace table when booking. The wine pairings feature excellent Turkish wines from Thrace and Anatolia — ask the sommelier rather than ordering by the bottle.
🍽️ Meals
Karaköy Güllüoğlu
Baklava and Turkish café · $12 · The finest baklava in Istanbul — the pistachio version is sublime. Have a glass of tea alongside at the standing counter.
Çiya Sofrası (Kadıköy — visited Day 4, moved here optionally)
Anatolian · $25 · Or a simple pide at Saray Muhallebicisi on Istiklal — Turkish milk puddings and savoury pide for an affordable midday meal.
Mikla
Turkish-Nordic tasting menu · $200 · Istanbul's most celebrated restaurant. Reserve a terrace table for the Bosphorus view.
Asian Side — Kadıköy Food Tour
Monday, October 4
Est. spend
$180
per person
🌅 Morning
Kadıköy Ferry from Eminönü
Eminönü Ferry Terminal, Fatih, Istanbul
The 20-minute Bosphorus ferry crossing to Kadıköy on the Asian shore is one of Istanbul's great travel experiences — seagulls following the boat, freighters anchored in the strait, and the entire skyline of the historic peninsula receding behind you. Ferry runs every 20 minutes.
Sit on the upper deck at the back of the ferry for the best views. Buy a simit and çay from the ferry vendor.
Kadıköy market (Kadıköy Çarşısı)
Muvakkithane Caddesi, Kadıköy, 34710 Istanbul
Istanbul's best food market — in the backstreets of Kadıköy's main bazaar. Fish mongers, cheese shops (the aged kaşar is excellent), olive vendors with 40 varieties, bakeries selling açma rolls, and the essential döner and lahmacun stalls.
Bostancı Balıkçı is the best fishmonger in the market for understanding what's seasonal. The fried mussel (midye tava) stalls on the market's edge are essential.
☀️ Afternoon
Lunch at Çiya Sofrası
Güneşlibahçe Sokak 43, Kadıköy, 34710 Istanbul
Chef Musa Dağdeviren's Anatolian restaurant is arguably Istanbul's most important — a daily-changing menu of dishes from Turkey's 81 provinces, many nearly extinct. The tasting approach (small portions of many dishes) reveals how vast and varied Turkish cuisine really is beyond kebabs.
Ask the server what is regional today — there are often dishes from Black Sea or southeastern Anatolian cuisine that are not on the English menu.
Moda promenade and tea
Moda Caddesi, Kadıköy, 34710 Istanbul
The Moda waterfront neighbourhood is where upper-middle-class Istanbulians have lived for 150 years. The promenade café at Moda Deniz Kulübü has outdoor terraces facing the Marmara Sea — afternoon tea with a panoramic view.
🌙 Evening
Kadıköy street food: midye dolma
Kadıköy ferry terminal area, Istanbul
Midye dolma — mussels stuffed with saffron-spiced rice and eaten with a squeeze of lemon — are sold from carts throughout Kadıköy. The vendor opens each shell to order and you hand the empty shell back to be refilled. Eat 10–15 for a proper portion.
Only eat midye dolma from busy carts with high turnover — freshness matters significantly with mussels.
Evening ferry back and rooftop bar at Karaköy
Karaköy, Beyoğlu, 34425 Istanbul
Evening ferry from Kadıköy back to Karaköy or Eminönü — the crossing at dusk with the mosques and palaces lit on the horizon is an Istanbul image you won't forget. End the evening at Kafe ara or the rooftop of The Bank Hotel in Karaköy.
🍽️ Meals
Mado Kadıköy
Turkish café and dondurma · $12 · Menemen eggs with Turkish cheeses and olives, then the döndürma (stretchy ice cream) for dessert.
Çiya Sofrası
Anatolian regional · $40 · Order 6–8 dishes to share — the variety is the point. Ask what's from the eastern provinces.
Midye dolma street food
Turkish street food · $15 · Supplemented by a plate of meze at a Karaköy meyhane on return.
Bosphorus Cruise & Ortaköy
Tuesday, October 5
Est. spend
$220
per person
🌅 Morning
Public Bosphorus ferry (full day cruise option)
Eminönü İDO Ferry Terminal, Fatih, Istanbul
The IDO public ferry from Eminönü runs the full length of the Bosphorus to Anadolu Kavağı (2 hours each way) — passing Dolmabahçe Palace, the Bosphorus Bridge, waterfront yalı mansions, and fortress ruins. Returns around 3pm. Far better value than private cruises (€10 total vs €40+).
The ferry departs at 10:35am and is the only public option — arrive 30 minutes early to get a good deck seat. Sit on the left (European shore) side going up, right (Asian shore) coming back.
Anadolu Kavağı hilltop lunch stop
Anadolu Kavağı, Beykoz, Istanbul
The end point of the public Bosphorus ferry — a small fishing village at the mouth of the Black Sea. Climb to the Yoros Castle ruins (Genoese, 14th century) above the village for views where the Black Sea meets the Bosphorus. Lunch at one of the fish restaurants along the quay.
The lufer (bluefish) is the Bosphorus catch of autumn — order it grilled simply with lemon.
☀️ Afternoon
Ortaköy neighbourhood
Ortaköy, Beşiktaş, 34347 Istanbul
After the ferry returns to Eminönü, take the T1 tram to Beşiktaş and walk to Ortaköy. The neighbourhood sits under the first Bosphorus Bridge — a small baroque mosque at the waterfront, a weekend artisan market, and the city's best kumpir (baked potato stuffed elaborately).
The kumpir vendors on Ortaköy's main street are genuinely competitive — each will load your potato with 20 toppings. Specify what you want rather than accepting everything they offer.
Dolmabahçe Palace exterior walk
Vişnezade, Dolmabahçe Caddesi, Beşiktaş, 34357 Istanbul
The 1856 Ottoman palace on the Bosphorus shore replaced Topkapi as the imperial residence — 285 rooms, 46 halls, and 6 tonnes of gold in the ceremonial hall ceiling. Interior tour (€20 pp) runs on fixed time slots. Even the exterior and gardens are impressive from the quay.
Book the guided tour online — walk-in tours sell out quickly and the palace enforces strict visitor limits per session.
🌙 Evening
Sunset drinks at Reina or Sortie waterfront
Muallim Naci Caddesi, Kuruçeşme, Beşiktaş, Istanbul
The waterfront entertainment complexes between Ortaköy and Arnavutköy have bars with Bosphorus Bridge views — the bridge lights up at dusk and the sight is genuinely spectacular. Expensive by Istanbul standards but the view justifies one drink.
Dinner at Hafız Mustafa 1864
Hüdavendigar Caddesi 3, Sirkeci, 34122 Istanbul
End the evening at Hafız Mustafa's full restaurant for a proper Ottoman sweets feast — baklava, sutlaç (baked rice pudding), künefe (warm cheese dessert with shredded pastry), and excellent Turkish coffee. The Sultanahmet branch is closest to most hotels.
Hafız Mustafa is open until midnight. Their breakfast is also excellent — çay, pastry, and kaymak (clotted cream).
🍽️ Meals
Boat vendor çay and simit
Turkish · $5 · Tea and simit from the ferry vendor before departure at Eminönü.
Anadolu Kavağı fish restaurants
Bosphorus seafood · $35 · Grilled lufer (bluefish) or hamsi (anchovies) — whatever is running in the Bosphorus in autumn.
Hafız Mustafa 1864
Ottoman sweets and café · $40 · The künefe and baklava selection is the point. Order Turkish coffee, not çay, with sweets.
Underground Cistern, Princes' Islands & Balık Ekmek
Wednesday, October 6
Est. spend
$200
per person
🌅 Morning
Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı)
Alemdar Mahallesi, Yerebatan Caddesi 1/3, Fatih, 34110 Istanbul
The underground Byzantine cistern built in 532 AD to supply water to the Great Palace. 336 columns in 12 rows, lit dramatically with coloured lights reflecting in the shallow water. Two column bases feature upturned Medusa heads — Roman spolia used purely for convenient height. Entry €10 pp.
Booking online avoids the ticket queue entirely. The cistern gets crowded after 11am — visit at 9am for a near-empty experience that feels atmospheric rather than touristy.
Prince's Islands (Büyükada) day trip
Büyükada, Adalar, Istanbul
Nine islands in the Marmara Sea — no motor vehicles permitted, only horse carriages and bicycles. Büyükada is the largest, with Victorian-era timber mansions, Orthodox monasteries, and the best pine-scented cycling in the region. Ferry from Eminönü takes 1.5 hours (€4 pp each way).
Rent a bicycle (€6/hour) rather than a horse carriage — the carriage is slow, the bicycle lets you explore the island's elevated viewpoints at your own pace.
☀️ Afternoon
Return ferry and Eminönü evening
Büyükada Ferry Terminal, Adalar, Istanbul
Evening ferry back from Büyükada — the sun goes down over the Marmara as the minarets of Istanbul come into view. Disembark at Eminönü and walk the Golden Horn waterfront toward Fener and Balat.
Fener and Balat neighbourhood
Balat, Fatih, Istanbul
Istanbul's Greek (Fener) and Jewish (Balat) neighbourhoods — 19th-century painted timber houses, the red-brick Greek Orthodox Patriarchate, and the best neighbourhood café scene in the city. Balat has been discovered but is still genuinely local.
The Balat stairs (Balat Merdivenleri) photographed endlessly on Instagram are 10 minutes' walk from the main street — colourful houses cascading down toward the Golden Horn.
🌙 Evening
Dinner in Balat at Forno Balat
Vodina Caddesi 22, Balat, Fatih, 34087 Istanbul
A neighbourhood restaurant in a converted Greek merchant's house — sourdough bread, imaginative Turkish-Mediterranean sharing plates, natural wines. One of the best new restaurants in Istanbul, unknown to most tourists.
Book ahead — the space is small and Balat has become a destination for Istanbul's dining scene.
🍽️ Meals
Kafe Ara
Turkish-European café · $15 · The café of photographer Ara Güler in Beyoğlu — walls covered in his black-and-white Istanbul images. Full Turkish breakfast plate.
Büyükada restaurant
Marmara seafood · $35 · Grilled fish at Princes' Islands restaurants overlooking the water — simpler and cheaper than Bosphorus waterfront restaurants.
Forno Balat
Turkish-Mediterranean · $65 · Outstanding sourdough, sharing plates, excellent natural wines from Turkish producers.
Chora Church, Grand Bazaar shopping & Departure
Thursday, October 7
Est. spend
$175
per person
🌅 Morning
Chora Church (Kariye Camii)
Dervişali, Kariye Cami Sokak 26, Fatih, 34087 Istanbul
A 4th-century church with the finest surviving Byzantine mosaics in the world — more vivid and better preserved than Hagia Sophia's. The Annunciation, Nativity, and Anastasis scenes are extraordinary. Entry fee applies (currently €7 pp); it reopened as a mosque in 2020 but mosaics remain visible.
This is the most undervisited major site in Istanbul — genuinely worth an early morning visit. Combined with Balat, it is an excellent half-day in the city's oldest Christian district.
Final Grand Bazaar shopping
Beyazıt, Fatih, 34126 Istanbul
Last chance for any remaining shopping — carpets, ceramics, spices, evil eye (nazar) items, and quality leather. If you've done the research earlier in the week, you can negotiate with confidence on day 7.
For spices to take home: vacuum-sealed pul biber (Aleppo pepper), sumac, and dried sour cherries travel well and are unavailable at this quality elsewhere.
☀️ Afternoon
Farewell Turkish coffee at Pierre Loti Café
Gümüşsuyu Balmumcu Sokak, Eyüp, Istanbul
The cable car up Eyüp hill (or 15-minute walk) reaches the Pierre Loti hilltop café — named after the French novelist who used to write here. Panoramic Golden Horn views, outdoor terraces, and decent Turkish coffee. Genuinely local crowd.
Take the Teleferik cable car up (Istanbulkart accepted) and walk down through the Eyüp cemetery — the Ottoman-era tilted headstones under cypresses are among the most beautiful in Istanbul.
Transfer to Istanbul Airport
Istanbul Airport, Tayakadın, 34283 Istanbul
Allow 90 minutes from central Istanbul to gate. Metro M11 from Gayrettepe (reachable via M2) to the airport. Taxi or Uber €30–40, 45–60 minutes depending on traffic.
Traffic in Istanbul can be severely bad on weekday afternoons. If your flight is before 8pm, allow 2 hours from the city centre to be safe.
🍽️ Meals
Simit and börek
Turkish street food · $5 · Final morning simit with a glass of çay from a street cart — the genuine Istanbul breakfast.
Develi Restaurant
Southeastern Turkish (Gaziantep) · $40 · Istanbul's most celebrated Gaziantep-cuisine restaurant. The fıstıklı kebab (pistachio-stuffed lamb) and lahmacun are extraordinary. Kapalıçarşı area, convenient for last-day bazaar.
Before you go
📅 Best time to visit
September to November (autumn) is ideal — temperatures 18–24°C, clear skies, and significantly fewer tourists than June–August. Spring (April–May) is equally good. Avoid July–August (35°C+, extremely crowded). Ramadan affects restaurant hours but adds cultural interest.
🛂 Visas
Turkey requires a visa for most nationalities — apply via the official e-Visa system at evisa.gov.tr (€55, processed within minutes). UAE passport holders: visa-free entry. EU citizens: e-Visa or may be visa-free depending on nationality. US, UK, Canada, Australia: e-Visa required. Do NOT use third-party visa sites — they charge 3–5x the official fee.
💱 Currency
Turkish Lira (TRY). Turkey has experienced significant inflation — exchange rates change frequently. Use ATMs on arrival for the best rate; avoid airport exchange bureaus. Inform your bank before travel. USD and EUR are widely accepted in tourist areas but TRY gives better value. Major cards accepted in restaurants and hotels.
🆘 Emergency numbers
police: 155
ambulance: 112
fire: 110
tourist_police: 527
💬 Things you won't find in a guidebook
- The Istanbulkart transit card covers metro, tram, bus, and Bosphorus ferries — essential for getting around and significantly cheaper than single tickets.
- Bargaining is expected in the Grand Bazaar and at street markets but not in restaurants or shops with fixed price tags. Opening a negotiation in a regular shop is considered rude.
- Dress conservatively in and around mosques — shoulders and knees covered for both men and women. Keep a scarf in your day bag. You will be turned away without appropriate dress.
- Turkish çay (black tea in a tulip-shaped glass) is served constantly and everywhere. Accepting tea offered by a shopkeeper is polite and does not obligate you to buy anything — it is genuine hospitality.
One thing worth not skipping
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