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5 Days in Prague: Castles, Beer Halls & Hidden Courtyards

Prague rewards those who wake up early. The Charles Bridge at 6am, the castle district before the tour groups arrive, and a city that genuinely hasn't been ruined by tourism yet. Best in autumn when the crowds thin and the light turns golden. Cheap relative to Western Europe by a significant margin.

5 days| Prague, Czech Republic| $900–$1,700 USD| 2 adults| Best: autumn
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Trip highlights

  • 1Charles Bridge at dawn before the crowds
  • 2Prague Castle and St Vitus Cathedral
  • 3Josefov Jewish Quarter
  • 4Vyšehrad fortress and cemetery
  • 5Traditional Czech pub crawl in Žižkov
$1,400USD total · 2 persons

Daily spend

Day 1
$110
Day 2
$120
Day 3
$75
Day 4
$155
Day 5
$85

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Day-by-day plan

Day 1

Arrival & Old Town

Wednesday, September 1

Est. spend

$110

per person

🌅 Morning

🚆

Arrive and check in, Old Town area

Václav Havel Airport Prague

Prague Airport (PRG) is 30 minutes from the centre by bus 119 to Nádraží Veleslavín then metro to Old Town. Taxis from the official stand cost around 600–700 CZK ($27–32). Stay in Old Town (Staré Město) or Vinohrady for the best base.

💡

Bolt (like Uber) is half the price of official taxis. Download before you land.

2h$30

☀️ Afternoon

🏛️

Old Town Square and Astronomical Clock

Staroměstské náměstí, Prague 1

The medieval Old Town Square is one of Europe's best — Týn Church twin spires, the Baroque St Nicholas Church, and the Astronomical Clock (Orloj) which chimes on the hour with a mechanical procession of apostles. The square gets very crowded by 11am; arrive for the 9am chime instead.

💡

Climb the Old Town Hall tower (200 CZK, ~$9) for the best overhead view of the square and Týn Church. Much cheaper and less crowded than most city viewpoints.

2hFree
🏛️

Josefov — Jewish Quarter walk

Josefov, Prague 1

The best-preserved Jewish quarter in Central Europe — six synagogues, the Old Jewish Cemetery (layers of graves 12 deep), and the story of Franz Kafka who was born a block away. The combined ticket covers all sites: ~500 CZK ($23).

💡

The Old Jewish Cemetery is the most moving part. Bodies are buried 12 layers deep because the community couldn't expand beyond the ghetto walls. 12,000 gravestones in a tiny space.

2.5h$23

🌙 Evening

🍜

Dinner in Staré Město, then evening walk

Staré Město, Prague 1

The Old Town is genuinely beautiful at night — empty lanes, lit doorways, and no traffic. Walk the back streets around Celetná and Ungelt courtyard after dinner.

2h$35

🍽️ Meals

☀️

Lokál Dlouhááá

Czech · $18 · The best tank-fresh Pilsner Urquell in Prague, served ice-cold with a thick creamy head. Svíčková (beef sirloin in cream sauce with dumplings) is the dish to order.

🌙

Café Louvre

Czech/Austrian · $28 · Open since 1902, frequented by Kafka and Einstein. Grand café atmosphere. Go for the Wiener Schnitzel.

🚇Airport → Old Town · 40min$2
Day 2

Prague Castle & Malá Strana

Thursday, September 2

Est. spend

$120

per person

🌅 Morning

🏛️

Prague Castle at opening — St Vitus Cathedral

Hradčany, Prague 1

The largest castle complex in the world by area opens at 6am (gardens) and 9am (buildings). Get there for 9am sharp before the groups arrive. St Vitus Cathedral is extraordinary — the Gothic rose window and the Alfons Mucha stained glass panel are the highlights inside. The castle circuit ticket costs 250 CZK ($11).

💡

The castle is free to walk through as a fortress — you only pay to enter the buildings. The views over red-roofed Prague from the castle walls are free and extraordinary.

2.5h$11
🏛️

Golden Lane (Zlatá ulička)

Zlatá ulička, Prague Castle

Tiny coloured cottages built into the castle fortification wall in the 16th century — alchemists and craftsmen lived here. Franz Kafka stayed at No. 22 when writing. Included in the castle ticket.

💡

Arrive early — it gets very narrow and crowded. The tiny armour and weapon displays inside the cottages are genuinely interesting.

45minFree

☀️ Afternoon

🏛️

Malá Strana (Little Quarter) walk

Malá Strana, Prague 1

The Baroque neighbourhood below the castle is the most photogenic in Prague — cobblestone lanes, pastel palaces, hidden gardens, and the Church of St Nicholas with its massive dome. Kampa Island and the John Lennon Wall are both here.

💡

The Vrtba Garden (Vrtbovská zahrada) is a hidden Baroque garden off Karmelitská — few tourists find it. Entry 130 CZK ($6). One of the finest Baroque gardens in Central Europe.

2hFree
🏛️

Charles Bridge crossing

Karlův most, Prague 1

The 14th-century stone bridge with 30 Baroque statues — the most famous being St John of Nepomuk. Cross it at 6pm for the golden light rather than midday when it's a crush of tourists and selfie sticks.

💡

The best photo of the bridge is from the embankment on the Malá Strana side (downstream) or from the river cruise boats. NOT from the bridge itself.

45minFree

🌙 Evening

🍜

Sunset at Charles Bridge, then riverside dinner

Nusle riverbank, Prague 1

Post-sunset walk along the Vltava embankment to a riverside restaurant. The reflections of the castle and bridge lit up at night are spectacular.

2.5h$40

🍽️ Meals

☀️

Malostranská beseda

Czech · $20 · Traditional Czech food in a 15th-century building. Duck confit with red cabbage and bread dumplings.

🌙

Hergetova Cihelna

Czech/International · $45 · Riverside location directly facing the Charles Bridge — the view is unbeatable at dinner. Book ahead.

🚌Old Town → Castle (Malostranské náměstí) · 15min$1
Day 3

Vyšehrad, Vinohrady & Žižkov

Friday, September 3

Est. spend

$75

per person

🌅 Morning

🏛️

Vyšehrad fortress and cemetery

V Pevnosti 159/5b, Vyšehrad, Prague 2

The original Prague fortress above the Vltava — older than Prague Castle, far fewer tourists. The cemetery here contains the graves of Dvořák, Smetana, and Mucha among other Czech greats. The neo-Gothic cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul has free entry. The views down the Vltava are some of the best in Prague.

💡

Go early — this is where Praguers take their Saturday morning walks. The cemetery is not morbid; it's genuinely beautiful and peaceful. Free entry.

2hFree

☀️ Afternoon

🏛️

Vinohrady neighbourhood walk

Vinohrady, Prague 2

The best residential neighbourhood in Prague — Art Nouveau apartment buildings, leafy squares, independent cafés, and the Prague locals who aren't interested in tourists. Náměstí Míru square and the Peace Square Church are the centre.

💡

Coffee Spot at Mánesova 80 is consistently the best specialty coffee in Prague. Worth the detour.

2hFree
🏛️

Žižkov TV Tower and neighbourhood

Mahlerovy sady 1, Žižkov, Prague 3

The communist-era TV tower with 10 crawling baby sculptures by David Černý is one of the strangest landmarks in Europe. Žižkov itself is the local drinking neighbourhood — the highest pub density of any district in Europe (statistically). The neighbourhood has a genuine, non-tourist character.

💡

The tower bar on the 7th floor is the highest-value view in Prague — cheaper than the official tower ticket for the observation deck. Order a beer and sit at the window.

2h$15

🌙 Evening

🏛️

Žižkov pub crawl

Žižkov, Prague 3

The authentic Prague pub experience is in Žižkov, not the Old Town. U Vystřelenýho oka ('The Shot-Out Eye') and Bukowski's are the two landmarks. Cheap Kozel and Pilsner Urquell. No tourists, just locals.

💡

A half-litre of good Czech lager in Žižkov costs 45–55 CZK ($2–2.50). In the Old Town, the same beer costs 120–180 CZK. Go where the locals go.

3h$25

🍽️ Meals

🌅

Café Jen

Czech/Café · $10 · Vinohrady institution. Best breakfast in the neighbourhood — eggs any way, good coffee.

☀️

Kantýna

Czech/Butcher · $20 · Butcher-restaurant hybrid — cuts of Czech meat grilled to order. One of the best lunch spots in the city.

🚇Old Town → Vyšehrad → Vinohrady · 15min$2
Day 4

Day Trip — Kutná Hora or Karlštejn

Saturday, September 4

Est. spend

$155

per person

🌅 Morning

🚆

Train to Kutná Hora

Praha Hlavní nádraží → Kutná Hora

Kutná Hora is 70 minutes by direct train from Prague's Hlavní nádraží (main station) and one of the most remarkable day trips in Europe. A medieval silver-mining town that was once the second wealthiest city in Bohemia, now a UNESCO site. The Church of St Barbara is the main attraction — a Gothic cathedral built in competition with St Vitus.

💡

Trains run hourly. Return ticket is around 180 CZK ($8). Buy at the station or online at cd.cz.

2h$8
🏛️

Sedlec Ossuary (Bone Church)

Zámecká 127, Sedlec, Kutná Hora

A small chapel decorated entirely with human bones — approximately 40,000 skeletons used to create chandeliers, garlands, and a coat of arms. Sounds ghoulish; in practice it's one of the most extraordinary rooms in Europe. Built in 1511, redesigned in 1870 by František Rint. Entry 90 CZK ($4).

💡

This is 2km from the main town centre — take the local bus or taxi from the station. Don't skip it. It's the reason to come.

1h$4

☀️ Afternoon

🏛️

Church of St Barbara and medieval town walk

Barborská, Kutná Hora

St Barbara is the patron saint of miners — the Gothic cathedral built for her in Kutná Hora took 500 years to complete and rivals anything in Prague. The old town lanes below it are atmospheric and largely tourist-free. Entry 120 CZK ($5.50).

💡

Have lunch at Dačický restaurant on Rakova — solid traditional Czech food in a 16th-century building.

2.5h$6
🚆

Return to Prague

Kutná Hora → Praha Hlavní nádraží

Train back to Prague Hlavní nádraží runs hourly. Journey about 70 minutes.

1.5h$8

🌙 Evening

🏛️

Nusle Bridge walk and Nové Město dinner

Václavské náměstí, Prague 1

Wenceslas Square (Václavské náměstí) is worth an evening stroll — the 750m boulevard was the site of the Velvet Revolution in 1989. The National Museum at the top is spectacular. Then dinner in the New Town.

2.5h$35

🍽️ Meals

☀️

Dačický, Kutná Hora

Czech · $15 · Best restaurant in Kutná Hora. Medieval atmosphere, good svíčková and goulash.

🌙

La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise

Czech tasting menu · $90 · One Michelin star. Czech cuisine elevated with tasting menus. Book 2-3 weeks ahead. The splurge meal of the trip.

🚆Prague → Kutná Hora → Prague · 70min each way$16
Day 5

Markets, Nové Město & Departure

Sunday, September 5

Est. spend

$85

per person

🌅 Morning

🍜

Náplavka farmers market (weekend) or Holešovice market

Náplavka, Prague 2 (riverside)

Náplavka riverside market on Saturday and Sunday mornings (8am–2pm) is the best food market in Prague — local produce, artisan bread, Czech wines, and river views. Holešovice market (Tržnice) is the indoor covered market hall open daily.

💡

Náplavka market is only on weekends. If you're here on a weekday, Holešovice Tržnice is the next best option.

2h$15
🏛️

Mucha Museum

Panská 7, Nové Město, Prague 1

Alphonse Mucha invented Art Nouveau. This small museum in the New Town contains his original sketches, posters, pastels, and photographs. More intimate than the National Gallery collection. Entry 280 CZK ($13).

💡

The Slav Epic (his masterwork — 20 huge canvases) is now in Moravský Krumlov Castle, not in Prague. The museum has smaller works and is still worth it.

1.5h$13

☀️ Afternoon

🏛️

Tesco or Palladium for last-minute shopping

Nové Město, Prague 1

Becherovka herbal liqueur, Czech crystal, and Bohemia Sekt sparkling wine make good gifts. Buy from the supermarket, not tourist shops — 40% cheaper.

💡

Becherovka 0.5L costs 250 CZK ($11) at Tesco vs 450 CZK ($20) at airport shops.

1h$20
🚆

Airport transfer

Václav Havel Airport Prague

Allow 2.5 hours before departure. Bus 119 from Nádraží Veleslavín (metro A line) takes 30 minutes to the airport. Bolt costs about 400–500 CZK ($18–23) and is faster.

1.5h$20

🍽️ Meals

🌅

Náplavka market snacks

Czech/Market · $8 · Trdelník, open-face sandwiches, fresh-pressed juice — graze as you go.

☀️

Café Savoy

Czech/Café · $25 · Neo-Baroque café in Malá Strana. The best svíčková in Prague and the most beautiful dining room in the city.

🚌City Centre → Václav Havel Airport · 40min$2

Before you go

📅 Best time to visit

April–May (spring flowers, mild weather) and September–October (golden autumn light, fewer crowds than summer, still warm enough for outdoor dining). December is magical for Christmas markets but cold. July–August is peak tourist season — Charles Bridge can be shoulder-to-shoulder.

🛂 Visas

EU/Schengen zone — no visa required for EU, US, UK, Australian, Canadian citizens. Up to 90 days. Others: check Schengen visa requirements at viza.mzv.cz.

💱 Currency

Czech Koruna (CZK). Cash is widely needed — many local pubs and small restaurants are cash-only. EUR is NOT accepted widely (unlike some EU cities). ATMs on Václavské náměstí charge commission; use Raiffeisenbank or ČSOB. Dynamic currency conversion at ATMs always choose 'CZK' not 'your home currency' — better rate.

🆘 Emergency numbers

police: 158

ambulance: 155

european emergency: 112

💬 Things you won't find in a guidebook

  • The cheapest transport in Central Europe: metro/tram/bus 24-hour pass is 120 CZK ($5.50). A week of unlimited travel is 310 CZK ($14). Buy at the yellow machines at metro stations.
  • Czech pub etiquette: sit down, a waiter will come to you. Do not order at the bar in traditional Czech pubs. When you want the bill, say 'zaplatím' (I'll pay). Tipping 10% is appreciated.
  • Pilsner Urquell and Kozel are the two Czech beers worth seeking out — but only in Prague, from the tank (čepované). Bottled Czech beer is not the same experience.
  • Prague is extremely walkable — the Old Town, Malá Strana, and Vinohrady are all connected by foot in under 20 minutes. Walking beats trams for sightseeing.
  • The tourist trap zone is tight: Old Town Square, Charles Bridge, and Wenceslas Square have triple-priced restaurants. Walk one street back from any major attraction for normal prices.

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