Everest Base Camp Trek — 14 Days via Namche & Tengboche

Tenzing-Hillary Airport, Lukla, Solukhumbu, Nepal

The 35-minute flight from Kathmandu's Tribhuvan Airport to Lukla (2,845m) is one of the most dramatic in the world. The runway is 527m long, slopes uphill at 12%, and terminates at a stone wall — the approach is above a deep gorge. The views of the Himalayan massif on a clear morning are jaw-dropping.

Lukla, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Lukla is where the trek officially begins. Check-in your TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card and Sagarmatha National Park permit at the checkpoint office. Meet your guide from the agency — they handle yak/porter logistics for the journey ahead.

Phakding, Solukhumbu, Nepal

The first day's trek is a gentle 3-hour descent along the Dudh Koshi river valley — a good introduction to the trail. The path crosses multiple suspension bridges strung with prayer flags. Phakding is a small village with several tea houses and is lower than Lukla, which helps initial acclimatisation.

Dudh Koshi River, Phakding section, Nepal

The Khumbu trail is famous for its long suspension bridges crossing the turbulent Dudh Koshi river. Each bridge is festooned with Tibetan prayer flags that flutter in the wind. Cross one at a time — bridges are rated for limited loads, and yak caravans have right of way.

Phakding Tea Houses, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Tea houses (locally run mountain lodges) line the EBC route. A typical tea house room has two wooden beds with mattresses — bring your own sleeping bag liner. Rooms are basic but clean. Evening meals are eaten communally in the dining room, which has a stove for heat.

Monjo, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Today's trek passes through Benkar and Chumoa villages before reaching Monjo and the official entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. The valley narrows and the river becomes more turbulent. The trail crosses several large suspension bridges.

Sagarmatha National Park Gate, Monjo, Nepal

The park gate at Monjo is the official entry point to Sagarmatha National Park — UNESCO World Heritage Site. Show your permit and sign the register. Beyond here the valley tightens dramatically and Himalayan peaks begin to dominate the skyline.

Hillary Bridge, Jorsalle, Nepal

The Hillary Bridge (60m span, 150m above the Dudh Koshi) is one of the most photographed spots on the EBC trek. The climb from the river to Namche Bazaar gains 600m in 2 hours — the steepest ascent on the route. First view of Everest appears over the ridge on clear days.

Namche Bazaar, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Namche Bazaar (3,440m) is the capital of the Sherpa world — a horseshoe-shaped town with tea houses, gear shops, bakeries, and a Saturday market. Everything in Kathmandu is available here at a price. The Sherpa Museum is worth 30 minutes. Good WiFi (by mountain standards) available.

Namche Bazaar, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Spend the evening in Namche resting. The town has several good restaurants with proper menus — pizza, pasta, momos, and apple pie are all on offer. Some lodges have hot showers ($2–3 extra). Sleep at 3,440m to begin the acclimatisation process.

Syangboche, above Namche Bazaar, Nepal

The golden rule of high-altitude trekking: climb high, sleep low. Today you ascend to Syangboche airstrip and the Everest View Hotel (the world's highest hotel at 3,880m) for stunning 360° Himalayan panoramas, then return to Namche to sleep. This stimulates red blood cell production without the risk of sleeping at greater altitude.

Everest View Hotel, Syangboche, Nepal

The Everest View Hotel (3,880m) was built in 1971 and remains the world's highest hotel with a restaurant. The terrace gives an unobstructed view of Everest (8,849m), Lhotse (8,516m), and the stunning pyramid of Ama Dablam (6,812m). Ama Dablam — meaning 'mother's necklace' — is arguably the most beautiful peak in the Khumbu.

Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre & Museum, Namche Bazaar, Nepal

The Sherpa museum above Namche Bazaar documents the history of the Sherpa people, their Buddhist traditions, and the history of Everest expeditions from the 1920s to the present. The 1953 Hillary-Tenzing summit attempt is covered in detail. Stunning views of Kongde Ri from the museum terrace.

Namche Bazaar market street, Nepal

Namche has numerous gear shops with quality equipment — hiking poles, down jackets, gaiters, gloves, and sleeping bags. If your gear has any weakness, address it here. Prices are negotiable. Reliable brands (The North Face, Black Diamond, Mammut) are available alongside good local copies.

Namche Bazaar lodges, Nepal

A second night at Namche (3,440m) is standard procedure on EBC treks — it gives the body a full 48 hours to acclimatise before ascending further. Many trekkers feel significantly better on the second morning than the first evening. Celebrate with Namche's best dinner.

Khumjung, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Leave Namche on the upper trail (more scenic than the valley route) passing through the Sherpa villages of Khunde and Khumjung. The Hillary School (built by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1961) is in Khumjung. The trail offers continuous views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam.

Ridge viewpoint between Sanasa and Deboche, Nepal

Between Khumjung and Tengboche the trail crosses a high ridge with what many consider the finest mountain view in Nepal — Ama Dablam's perfect pyramid rises directly ahead, with Everest's black summit triangle visible to the left. This is one of the most photographed spots in the Himalayas.

Tengboche Monastery, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Tengboche Monastery (3,867m) is the most important Sherpa Buddhist monastery in the Khumbu — a cluster of white-washed buildings beneath the 6,812m peak of Ama Dablam. The main temple has elaborate Buddhist murals and a large gilded Buddha. Monks chant in the early morning and at dusk.

Tengboche Bakery, near the monastery, Nepal

Tengboche has a small bakery run by the monastery that produces outstanding apple pie, cinnamon rolls, and coffee. After the morning's trek, this is the most welcome rest stop on the route. The bakery sits on the edge of the monastery clearing with views of Everest and Ama Dablam.

Tengboche clearing, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Tengboche's position gives a direct view of Ama Dablam at sunset — the 6,812m peak turns gold, then orange, then deep red in the last light. This alpenglow effect (enrosadira) on the Himalayan rock faces is one of the most memorable experiences of the entire trek.

Pangboche, Solukhumbu, Nepal

The morning walk from Tengboche descends into the rhododendron forest before emerging at Deboche and then climbing to Pangboche (3,985m), the last permanently inhabited village in the Khumbu above 3,900m. The upper Pangboche monastery is one of the oldest in the Khumbu.

Upper Pangboche Monastery, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Upper Pangboche Monastery sits above the village at 4,000m — claimed to be over 350 years old and the oldest monastery in the Khumbu region. The small temple contains ancient Buddhist thangkas and juniper incense burners that have smouldered for centuries. A short detour from the main trail.

Dingboche, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Above Pangboche the trail follows the Imja Khola river through a broad glacial valley. The landscape opens dramatically — stone-walled yak pastures, mani walls, and the massive walls of Ama Dablam on the left and Island Peak on the right. Dingboche (4,410m) sits in a sheltered bowl surrounded by high peaks.

Dingboche, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Dingboche is a high-altitude yak pasture turned trekking hub with stone-walled fields, prayer flag poles, and stunning views of Island Peak (6,189m), Lhotse (8,516m), and Makalu (8,485m). The stone walls were built to protect crops from wind — in autumn the buckwheat fields are golden.

Dingboche tea houses, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Tea house dining rooms above 4,000m are heated by yak dung stoves — the communal warmth is welcome as temperatures drop to -5°C outside after dark. The social atmosphere of trekkers from around the world sharing stories of the day is one of the great pleasures of the route.

Nagarjun Hill, above Dingboche, Nepal

The second acclimatisation day on the EBC route. From Dingboche, hike steeply up the ridge above the village to approximately 5,100m. This is the highest point you will have stood — the views of Makalu, Lhotse, and the Chukhung Ri ridgeline are spectacular. Return to Dingboche for lunch and spend the afternoon resting.

Nagarjun ridge above Dingboche, Nepal

From the Nagarjun ridge, the Chukhung Valley opens to the south-east — Island Peak (6,189m, a popular trekking peak) is directly visible, and the massive south face of Lhotse (8,516m) fills the northern horizon. The scale of the Himalayan walls from this vantage is overwhelming.

Dingboche tea houses, Nepal

Mandatory rest afternoon after the morning acclimatisation hike. Hydrate extensively, eat a full lunch, and sleep for 1–2 hours if possible. The body does most of its altitude acclimatisation work during sleep — quality rest today directly affects performance on the summit push days ahead.

Dingboche tea house, Nepal

Your guide will brief the group on acute mountain sickness (AMS) recognition for the final altitude push — Lobuche (4,940m), Gorak Shep (5,164m), and Everest Base Camp (5,364m). Know the symptoms: persistent headache, vomiting, confusion, loss of coordination, pink frothy cough (HAPE). Descent is the only cure.

Dingboche, Solukhumbu, Nepal

A second night at 4,410m is standard on the Machame-style EBC itinerary — it locks in the red blood cell adaptation before the final push to base camp. Trekkers who rush this acclimatisation day have significantly higher AMS rates above Lobuche.

Thukla, Solukhumbu, Nepal

The trail leaves Dingboche through the stone-walled yak pastures and climbs steadily to Thukla (4,620m). The Khumbu valley becomes broader and more arid as the glacier zone approaches. The final vegetation disappears above Thukla. Wind increases significantly on the open moraine.

Thukla Pass (Dughla Pass), Khumbu, Nepal

Above Thukla, the trail climbs steeply to a high ridge (4,830m) with hundreds of memorial cairns and prayer flag poles erected in memory of climbers who died on Everest and the Khumbu peaks. This is one of the most emotionally powerful spots on the entire trek. Names of lost climbers from every nation are inscribed on the stones.

Lobuche, Solukhumbu, Nepal

From the pass the trail flattens along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier — the world's highest glacier flowing from the Khumbu Icefall. The landscape is lunar and dramatic. Lobuche sits directly on the moraine edge at 4,940m with close views of the Khumbu Glacier and the south face of Pumori.

Lobuche moraine, Khumbu Glacier, Nepal

A short walk from the tea houses to the lateral moraine edge gives a dramatic view over the Khumbu Glacier — a chaotic river of ice stretching up towards the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm. The glacier is retreating visibly — older trekkers report walking on ice where moraine now exists.

Lobuche tea houses, Khumbu, Nepal

Lobuche (4,940m) is the highest you have slept. The tea houses here are functional but cold — yak dung stoves in the dining room provide the only warmth. Sleep quality deteriorates at altitude; waking frequently to breathe is normal. Hot lemon honey tea before bed helps with acclimatisation.

Gorak Shep, Khumbu, Nepal

The morning walk from Lobuche follows the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier to the sandy plain of Gorak Shep (5,164m) — the last inhabited point on the EBC route. The trail crosses glacial rubble and sandy outwash plains. The first clear view of Kala Patthar appears on the left.

Gorak Shep, Khumbu Glacier, Nepal

Gorak Shep is the last tea house settlement — a handful of lodges on a sandy high-altitude plain surrounded by moraines. Drop your main bags here, check in, eat a light snack, and prepare for the EBC walk. The trail to EBC from here is 3.5km of glacial moraine walking.

Everest Base Camp, 5,364m, Khumbu, Nepal

The trail to EBC from Gorak Shep crosses the lateral moraine and descends onto the Khumbu Glacier itself — a route through ice seracs, crevasse bridges, and boulder fields marked by cairns. EBC itself is a stony plain at 5,364m covered in expedition tents in spring climbing season. In September/October it is empty except for occasional expeditions. Buddhist prayer flags and stone memorial cairns mark the camp. The view up into the Khumbu Icefall is awe-inspiring.

Gorak Shep → Everest Base Camp trail, Nepal

The return from EBC to Gorak Shep is 3.5km of moraine walking. Most trekkers are emotionally and physically drained by this point — move carefully on the uneven glacier moraine. The late afternoon cloud build is possible in September — stay ahead of it.

Gorak Shep, Khumbu, Nepal

Return to the Gorak Shep tea house (5,164m) for dinner and the night. This is the highest you will sleep on the entire trek. The dining room will be full of exhausted, elated trekkers comparing experiences. Tomorrow morning is Kala Patthar — the sunrise climb that is the single best experience on the entire route.

Kala Patthar summit, 5,545m, Khumbu, Nepal

The 04:30 start in the dark is worth every frozen minute. Kala Patthar ('Black Rock') is a subsidiary summit of Pumori (7,161m) reached in 1.5–2 hours from Gorak Shep. The 5,545m viewpoint gives the single best view of Everest in the world — the complete south face, Western Cwm, Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse, and Nuptse are all visible in one panorama. The summit triangle catches the first light of dawn before anything else on earth.

Kala Patthar → Gorak Shep, Nepal

After sunrise, descend carefully back to Gorak Shep — the rocky trail is much easier to navigate in daylight. Most trekkers feel an extraordinary emotional release at the summit — weeks of preparation and days of altitude effort have produced the finest mountain view on earth.

Pheriche, Solukhumbu, Nepal

After Kala Patthar, the rapid descent begins — and it is remarkable how quickly the body responds to going down. The descent from 5,164m to Pheriche (4,288m) takes 4 hours and most trekkers feel significantly better by the time they arrive. The Himalayan Rescue Association clinic at Pheriche provides free AMS consultations.

Himalayan Rescue Association Clinic, Pheriche, Nepal

The HRA clinic at Pheriche (4,288m) is staffed by volunteer Western doctors from October–November and provides free altitude sickness assessments. Even if you feel fine, the post-summit consultation is worth doing — doctors can identify early HACE/HAPE signs that trekkers often dismiss as exhaustion.

Pheriche, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Sleeping at 4,288m after three nights above 4,900m feels dramatically different — breathing comes more easily, headaches typically lift, and appetite returns. Pheriche has good tea houses and is a traditional stopping point for EBC trekkers on the descent. Celebrate with a hot shower if the lodge offers it.

Tengboche, Solukhumbu, Nepal

The descent continues through Pangboche and back into the rhododendron forest. After the stark grey-and-white world above 4,500m, the return of green vegetation at Tengboche is emotionally moving. Ama Dablam — which has been behind you for days — now faces you on the descent.

Phunki Tenga → Namche, Nepal

From Tengboche, take the lower trail down to Phunki Tenga and up the switchbacks to Namche. The lower route through the Dudh Koshi valley passes through sub-tropical forest and is a dramatic contrast to the high-altitude landscape of the past five days.

Namche Bazaar, Solukhumbu, Nepal

The return to Namche feels like returning to a major city after the upper Khumbu. Hot showers, bakeries, WiFi, and cold Everest Beer. The full emotional weight of what you have accomplished typically hits in Namche. Many trekkers describe this as the most emotional moment of the trek.

Namche Bazaar market, Nepal

Namche has the best souvenir shops on the EBC route — Tibetan thangkas, hand-carved mani stones, yak wool blankets, singing bowls, and ceremonial prayer wheels. Prices are negotiable. The quality of Namche's Tibetan goods is significantly higher than Kathmandu's tourist market.

Namche Bazaar restaurants, Nepal

A proper sit-down dinner in Namche — one of the best restaurants on the trek. Many trekkers celebrate their EBC summit here with yak steak, good wine, and an apple pie. The shared celebration with other descending trekkers is one of the great social experiences of the Khumbu route.

Monjo, Solukhumbu, Nepal

The final significant descent from Namche drops 800m on steep switchbacks to Monjo and the Sagarmatha National Park exit gate. The rhododendron forest is cool and quiet after the crowds of the upper trail. Early starts avoid the upward-bound trekkers on the busy section near the Hillary Bridge.

Hillary Bridge, Jorsalle, Nepal

The Hillary Bridge crossing on the return — now looking downvalley toward Lukla — has a different emotional quality than the upward crossing of Day 2. Below you is the same turbulent river; above you is the completed journey. A moment worth pausing for.

Lukla, Solukhumbu, Nepal

The final section from Phakding back to Lukla involves a 200m climb — which after 10 days of trekking and muscle fatigue is deceptively hard. But Lukla's tea houses, hot showers, and phone signal are a powerful motivator.

Lukla, Solukhumbu, Nepal

Lukla has reliable (if slow) WiFi and phone signal for the first time since Namche. Laundry services available. Many trekkers spend the evening uploading photos, calling family, and processing the experience over cold beer and good food. The final night on the trail.

Lukla restaurant, Nepal

Tradition on the EBC trek is a farewell dinner with your guide and porter on the final Lukla night. This is the moment to tip generously — guides receive ~$20–30/day tip per trekker, porters $10–15/day. The relationship built over 11 days in the mountains is genuine and the tip represents a significant part of their annual income.

Tenzing-Hillary Airport, Lukla, Nepal

The Lukla departure is the reverse of the arrival — the aircraft lines up at the bottom of the 527m uphill runway, applies full power against the brakes, then releases. The aircraft accelerates uphill and launches off the end into a 600m drop to the valley below. On clear mornings the Himalayan panorama from the aircraft is extraordinary.

Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, Nepal

The return to Kathmandu after two weeks in the Khumbu is disorienting — the heat, noise, traffic, and crowds of Thamel are overwhelming after the silence and cold clarity of the mountains. Give yourself a gentle re-entry day. Hot shower, room service, and a real bed.

Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal

Spend the afternoon in Thamel recovering and celebrating. Hot shower, laundry service, a full Western lunch, and a long sleep. Most trekkers find they sleep 10–12 hours on return to Kathmandu after the altitude-disrupted sleep of the previous week. The body is catching up on oxygen debt.

Boudhanath Stupa, Kathmandu, Nepal

Many trekkers visit Boudhanath Stupa — one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world — on their return from EBC. The stupa is circled by Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims spinning prayer wheels. After two weeks under Buddhist prayer flags and mani stone walls, it feels like a meaningful completion of the journey.

Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal

Kathmandu has excellent restaurants after weeks of dal bhat and noodle soup. Momo dumplings at the original Thamel House, a Newari tasting menu, or the world-famous beef sekuwa (grilled beef) are all options. This dinner closes the Khumbu chapter and begins the return to the world.

Kathmandu Durbar Square, Kathmandu, Nepal

Kathmandu's Durbar Square is a UNESCO World Heritage Site complex of medieval palaces, temples, and courtyards in the heart of the old city. The Kumari Bahal (house of the living goddess) and the Taleju Temple dominate the square. The architecture survived the 2015 earthquake with significant damage — restoration work is ongoing.

Kumari Bahal, Kathmandu Durbar Square, Nepal

The Kumari is a pre-pubescent girl selected as the living embodiment of the goddess Taleju. She lives in the Kumari Bahal courtyard and occasionally appears at the upstairs window. Visitors stand in the courtyard and wait — the appearance of the Kumari is considered extremely auspicious.

Pashupatinath Temple, Deopatan, Kathmandu, Nepal

Pashupatinath Temple on the Bagmati River is one of the most sacred Hindu temples in the world — a major pilgrimage site for Shiva worshippers across South Asia. The burning ghats where Hindu cremation rites take place are openly visible from the eastern bank. Sadhus (holy men) with painted faces gather near the temple.

Swayambhunath Stupa, Kathmandu, Nepal

Swayambhunath sits on a hill above Kathmandu with 365 stone steps to the summit — a gentle reminder of the climbing ability acquired on EBC. The gilded stupa has Buddha's all-seeing eyes painted on all four sides and is surrounded by mischievous rhesus macaque monkeys. Panoramic views of Kathmandu Valley.

Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal

Final night in Kathmandu before the international flight. Thamel has excellent rooftop restaurants with Himalayan views on clear evenings. The Thakali Kitchen (authentic Thakali cuisine), Chez Caroline (French), or the original Maya Cocktail Bar are popular final-night destinations for trekkers departing the next morning.

Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu, Nepal

Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport is small and busy — check-in queues can be long. Arrive 3 hours before international departures. Security involves multiple checkpoints. The departures hall has a good selection of Nepali handicrafts, pashmina, and Tibetan goods if last-minute gifts are needed.

Tribhuvan International to destination, above Nepal

On clear mornings, west-bound flights from Kathmandu pass south of the Himalayan range — Everest, Lhotse, and the full Khumbu massif are visible from the right-side windows for approximately 20 minutes after departure. Book a right-side window seat if possible on westbound flights.

International transit hub en route

Most international flights from Kathmandu transit through Doha (Qatar Airways), Dubai (Emirates/flydubai), Delhi (Air India), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), or Bangkok (Thai Airways). Qatar Airways and Emirates both offer excellent Business Class upgrades from KTM at competitive prices — worth checking at the gate.

En route international flight

The long flight home is the perfect time to review photographs, begin a travel journal, and process the experience of Everest Base Camp. The contrast between the Khumbu's silence and the aircraft's pressurised normality highlights what an extraordinary journey has just been completed.

Home

The return from Everest Base Camp marks the completion of one of the world's great trekking journeys — 5,545m Kala Patthar, 5,364m EBC, 14 days in the Khumbu, the monastery at Tengboche, the Hillary Bridge, the yak caravans, the prayer flags. The Himalayas do not leave you the same person who arrived.